Lawn Care Treatment Calendar
January
Stay off grass and keep warm!
February
Frozen grass, mainly due to frost, can be easily harmed this time of year. Walking, driving a vehicle, etc... can break the blades of grass in your lawn, They will stay this way the remainder of the winter. Don't worry, it will green up in the spring.
March
- Aerating and overseeding
Even though the optimal time for this is in the fall, you can also seed at the beginning of the spring rains before the season gets too hot. However, watering is important to carry the new grass through the summer. Crabgrass Control should not be applied at this time, because it will keep seeds from germinating.
- Disease
One of the first diseases that occur in lawns is a disease called Red thread. It appears as brown circles in your lawn, but if you look closely at the top of the blade of grass, there is a red thread. This is the actual fungus.
- Insects
Insects are typically not a problem this time of year. Despite this, you can check your lawn for grub damage that may have occurred in the previous year.
- Fertilizer
At this time of the year, a balance fertilizer can be applied. You will want to keep your phosphorus and potash levels high, and not too much nitrogen.
The fertilizers we will apply are:
- Nitrogen: This is a growth regulator.
- Phosphorus: For root growth and budding. A soil test is recommended.
- Potash: Cell structure, helping fight disease.
- Crabgrass control
There are many different types of crabgrass control products. Each one can be specifically used to meet your lawn's needs.
April
- Aerating and overseeding
Same as March.
- Disease
Same as March
- Insects
You will want to start to look for an insect called a sod webworm. They can do damage to your lawn by eating the surface of the lawn. They damage the crown and the leaf blades of grass. The larvae stage is what causes the damage. The adult moths fly in a zigzag motion, about 2 feet off of the ground. They land upside down on the blades of grass. They can cause as much, sometimes even more damage as grubs.
- Fertilizer
Same as March
- Crabgrass control
Same as March
- Mowing grass
There are a few things you want to do when mowing grass. One is make sure your blades are properly sharpened. Not doing so may rip the grass blades, which make the grass more prone to disease. Cut the grass high this time of the year, which promotes good root growth to prepare it for the summer months. About 3 1\4 to 3 1\2 inches.
May
- Disease
You will still have red thread this time of year. It is all based on the humidity. If you have warm, humid days, then red thread will stick around. If the humidity increases in the night time, then you will start to see signs of brown patch. Both of these diseases can live in your lawn at the same time. Brown patch has larger circular areas in your lawn. These diseases are maintained by fungicides.
- Insects
This is the prime time to start looking around for sod webworms. Again, the larval stage is what harms the lawn.
- Fertilizer
Same as April
- Crabgrass control
Same as April
- Mowing grass
Same as April
June
- Disease
By now red thread disease has stopped, and brown patch has increased. There are many types of fungicides to control this disease. It is recommended that you use several of these instead of one certain type all season.
- Insects
Grubs are now on top of the ground and will soon be changing into Japanese beetles. Keep an eye out for sod webworms, fleas, ticks, etc... This is the best time to apply a grub control product that targets grubs and is not harmful to pets.
- Fertilization
Cut back on fertilization, or cut out completely. Dry conditions can cause the fertilizer (mainly nitrogen) to stress your lawn. Phosphorus and potash in small amounts may be applies for cell structure of the plant.
- Mowing grass
Reduce the mowing if possible. This will reduce the stress.
July
- Disease
There are many types of disease during the summer time. Such as brown patch, rust, yellow patch, etc. Don't expect your lawn to look as good now as it did in the spring. It is under stress, which will cause it not to grow as quickly.
- Insects
Grubs that were on top of the ground in June, have now changed into Japanese beetles (adult stage). Also this time of year, you can apply insect control for surface feeding insects. Such insects as leaf hoppers, box elder, fleas, ticks, etc.... This treatment isn't season long control treatment under the normal program. You can however, receive extended number of treatments.
- Watering
Cool season grass during this time of year will usually go dormant. Unless you water deeply once a week it is best not water at all.
August
- Seeding
If your plans are to seed in September, mainly due to wiregrass, then now is the time to round up your lawn. You may need to apply round up to your lawn twice to insure that you have controlled the wiregrass.
- Soil test
It is important that you take a soil sample to find out what the pH level of your soil is. This will determine whether or not you need lime, and how much. If you do need lime, putting it down this time of year will give it time to breakdown. Correcting the PH level at this time will provide you seed job with better results.
September
- Insects
During this time of year, grubs are likely to be in your lawn. Unless you have had a grub control treatment, they are feeding on you lawn's root system. Grubs are mature this time of year, which makes them more difficult to control.
- Aerating and overseeding
Aerating your lawn this time of year should be immediately followed by seeding. The seed will fall into the holes that the core aerator has plugged to increase germination. Just applying the seed without aeration will be a waste of time and money.
- Why am I reseeding my lawn?
- Too much shade
- Grub damage
- Soil compaction
- Disease damage
- Wiregrass, unwanted grasses
- Improper mowing
- Improve your varieties of turfgrass
- Improve value of real estate
October
- Disease
Brown patch and red thread disease should have all but stopped. You may have a day or so where red thread may flare up.
- Insects
With cool days coming regularly, grubs will be moving farther down into the ground, When this happens, grub damage on your lawn will end until the beginning of spring.
- Leaves
It is imperative to keep leaves off of your lawn, especially if you have recently seeded. Newly planted seed needs adequate sunlight and the leaves on the ground block the sun. To establish good root growth, the new seedlings require every second of sunlight is can.
- Fertilizer
During the next few months, we will apply as much fertilizer as possible to develop carbohydrates, cell structure and good root growth. I am finishing up the fall liquid treatment. This is also another reason to keep leaves off of the lawn. When spraying, the fertilizers and weed control have to actually come into direct contact with the lawn.
November and December
- Fertilizer
This is the last treatment of the year. It consists of strictly nitrogen in dry pellet form. These dry pellets when applied to your lawn, will roll of any leaves into the ground. All the leaves don't have to be off the lawn for the application to be effective. Nitrogen is mobile, allowing your grass to pick up the application during the winter months. This time of year l am putting down the maximum amount of nitrogen I can per 1000 ft2 without leaching. If the early winter months are dry, it wouldn't be a bad idea to water a few times a week
Quick reminder: Watch walking on the grass during the early morning frosts. This can cause the grass blades to break off, leaving brown footprints until spring.